this is kind of embarrassing, but here I am. Politics still driving me crazy, but one must eat, after all.
Of course I have been eating all through this ordeal (though there have been a
few moments when I actually lost my appetite.) Some highlights really stand
with 3 oysters on the half shell for the oyster eaters, with citrus mignonette
and tiny julienne radish and candied tangerine peel. (I had the green salad
with fines herbes and cabernet vinaigrette.)
carpaccio with Thai peppercorns on a small heap of shredded cabbage with rice
vinegar and sugar.
poached in olive oil with picholine olive tapenade, garlic, and shaved fennel
with a crisp toast. (I had a poached egg yolk and rapini, poached garlic and
hopper shrimp sautéed in their shells in smoked paprika oil with green garlic
and preserved lemon.
soup with curry scented crème fraîche.
agnolotti with roasted beets and a beet reduction.
in casuela with chick peas and chorizo (I had risotto with cabrales and apple.)
grouper in Benton bacon on lentil du puys with sauce Robert
on pomme de terre puree (I had wild mushrooms, sautéed.)
– Rocastin (French sheeps milk cheese), pecorino noce, sweet grass dairy
Georgia gouda, sweet grass dairy ripe goat with vegetable ash, Epoisses,
cabrales, candied pecans, quince paste, apples, sherry soaked golden raisins.
crème brulée with pecan sandies; olive oil cake with chocolate sorbet and
bitter orange sauce; crepes with almond mousse and strawberries; some kind of
chocolate pave with tangerine sorbet.
my God it was good!
great side benefits of that Florida trip – cooking with Dave which is always
the most fun, even in my tiny Apalach kitchen and Dave going out with David
Carrier to meet his seafood suppliers and arranging to get FRESH GULF OYSTERS,
SHRIMP AND GROUPER OVERNIGHTED TO BLOOMINGTON!!! As a direct result we had
fried grouper cheeks and chips with a smoked paprika remoulade one night at
Restaurant Tallent and I can’t even tell you how good that was!! One of the
best things I’ve ever eaten.
highlight of the last weeks (months?) has been a couple of wonderful meals at FARMbloomington. One was breakfast – amazing
biscuits and gravy even I can get excited about (that’s them in the
remember, here in Indiana, “biscuits and gravy” usually refers to a white
sludgy flour concoction full of sausage and tasting strongly of black pepper,
slathered over biscuits. I am not saying it doesn’t hit the spot every once in
a while, but mostly that’s because it’s one of those white comfort foods that
kind of puts you into a refined starch coma.
the biscuits and gravy at FARMbloomington are eye-opening. First the biscuits
are really something – flakey and rich and wonderful. But it’s the gravy that
really turned me on – it’s actually light and flavorful, full of red and green
peppers and chunks of kielbasa. A vibrant (and much healthier) cousin to the
usual Hoosier fare.
then there was dinner. I was invited to a departmental dinner there recently
(old I.U. colleagues) that had every single one of us doing back flips.
started with a couple of “welcomes from the chef” – a salmon tartare that was
herby and spicy and just superlative (I have had these excellent raw fish preps
from Daniel Orr before and they are always knockouts) and a wild rice pancake
with goat cheese that I’d have been content to have as an entrée.
a first course I had the tuna ceviche in white balsamic and coconut water –
more raw fish wonder, this one crunchy with bits of coconut (tiny chunks, not
shreds) – just super. Jer had the butternut squash banana bisque that is
becoming legendary around here – it was garnished with crab meat and fruity
chiles. Elsewhere around the table, out of reach of my questing fork, were
Caribbean prawns on a bed of tropical slaw and soup made from house-corned
beef. I did snag a bite of pizza with shitake mushrooms, ricotta and truffle
oil, which I have had before, and which I love.
main dish was the best thing I think I’ve ever had at FARM: a vegetable plate
with spinach and basil risotto in the middle, butternut squash with blue cheese
and hazelnuts, grilled veggie and mushroom ragout, tofu with curry and sesame,
fried leeks, mixed grain pilaf, and broccolini in garlic oil. Every component
was perfect and an adventure to boot. (And, just because I love them, I had a
side of Daniel’s fries, covered with chiles and cheese.)
had duck in a barbeque sauce on a bed of warm potato salad, which he said was
great, and others had the tandoori salmon, the skirt steak and frites, and the
chicken with black vinegar and chile paste.
managed dessert – barely. Jer and I split a berry tart full of lemony pastry
while I am on a FARM roll, I should mention a recent meeting with farmer
friends that ended up being a bar snack feast – soup (tomato), edamame with
dipping salt, fries (natch), pizza, white bean hummus, and I can’t even
remember what else, but really, really good stuff!
of other good stuff going on here (foodwise) but tons of deadlines and the
relentless beat of the primaries. I will post again soon.